Seoul Searching and Seoul Plates Diaries: Part Four - Chicken Soup

Tosokchon Samgyetang

November 15, 2022, Seoul

After we visited the Changdeokgung Palace, Mr. Ahn Ji-hoon announced it was lunchtime. On our previous trips around Asia, when we hired a guide, they would often take us to restaurants where they received a commission from the owner. We were never happy. Reluctantly, we agreed as he told us the story that this restaurant was the favorite of the last Korean president. Their specialty was Samgye-tang, a Korean ginseng chicken soup.

We pulled up to a charming traditional hanok that had been transformed into a restaurant called Tosokchon Samgyetang (http://tosokchon.com). This time, our hopes bloomed. As we entered, delicious smells wafted from every inch of this cozy, warm restaurant with its natural, large wood timbers and beautiful black-and-red brick walls. 

Everyone knows that chicken soup warms the soul, but this soup is also healing due to its medicinal ingredients: ginseng, jujube, and garlic.

Traditionally, this soup is served during their hot summers, believed to boost energy and stamina, combat the heat, and embody the Korean saying “fight fire with fire.” However, it was fall, and this restaurant was packed. So, even though it was a traditional summer dish, people craved its delicious flavor year-round.  

We sat at a long wooden table with benches, and immediately the server placed kimchi and pickled radish on our table. A small cup of hot ginseng soju was served, accompanied by a spring onion pancake. We found the Korean restaurants to be efficient. The service is fast.  Almost too fast. We were on vacation and wanted to relax and enjoy the atmosphere. In Seoul, that wasn’t happening. Immediately, our main dish was served, a steaming ceramic bowl filled with a boiling broth and whole chicken.

Mr. Ahn Ji-hoon went into action, demonstrating how to eat this unusual dish. With his long-handled spoon and chopsticks, he tore into the chicken cavity, revealing a mouthwatering mixture of glutinous rice seasoned with garlic cloves, ginseng, and jujubes. The savory broth was piping hot, also seasoned with the same ingredients. This dish has become one of my husband's and my favorite Korean dishes. We make it at least twice a month.

This is our dinner, accompanied by our sides.

Samgye-tang Recipe

Ingredients:

• 7 pieces of ginseng reconstituted

• 1 Cup soaked sweet rice

• 7 Jujubes

• 12 peeled garlic cloves

• Two Cornish game hens

• 1 to 2 boxes of organic chicken broth 

• Fish sauce (optional)

• Salt and pepper (optional)

• Green onions for garnish

Ginseng is a wonderful plant whose roots have been used in Asia for medicinal purposes for centuries. It is known to support overall well-being, boost energy, and reduce stress. Some believe it benefits brain function and blood sugar control. 

You can purchase two different types: Asian ginseng (Panax ginseng) or American ginseng. We have tried both. We prefer the Asian. We purchase ours on Amazon or eBay, which comes from Korea. We normally buy the small package for $18.95, and it makes the recipe approximately five times.

Jujube, also known as red date or Chinese date, is native to South and East Asia. It is entirely edible, except for a small pit, similar to an olive. It’s full of vitamin C and antioxidants. They can be enjoyed fresh or dried. Their health benefits include promoting sleep, managing inflammation, and supporting digestion.

Instructions:

1. Remove the colorful strings from the ginseng roots and soak them in water for 1 hour.

2. Soak 1 cup of sweet rice for at least 1 hour.

3. Peel your garlic and place a large pot on the stove.

4. Stuff your hens with the soaked rice (save some to add to the soup stock; it makes the broth slightly thicker), alternating with a couple of garlic cloves, ginseng, and jujubes. 

5. Then place the hens in the large pot and cover with chicken broth.

6. Then add the remaining ginseng, jujube, and garlic. Now this is where I add a personal touch. The soup served in Korea does not add salt, pepper, or fish sauce. The salt and pepper are placed on the table. But we prefer to add when it's cooking. So now is the time to add the salt, pepper and fish sauce if you desire. I feel it makes a full-flavored broth.

7. Simmer until the chicken is tender and well-cooked. Then place each chicken in a Korean cooking stone bowl.

You ask, “What’s that?” It’s a premium stoneware made from fine clay, glazed twice with a natural glaze called a dolsot. It can be used directly on stovetops, ovens, or microwaves. We purchased ours on Amazon. It comes with a small carrying tray. We also purchased the tool that is used to pick up the hot bowl from the stove.

8. After you place each chicken in bowls, add broth, pieces of garlic, ginseng, jujube, and some of the rice, place the bowls directly on the burner and heat till boiling.

9. Take off the heat, garnish with green onions, and serve with your favorite banchan and warm ginseng soju.

ENJOY!